The centre cabane has 3 ribs that make up the basic surround. The outer two ribs are fitted and bolted to the frame using ply doubles to ensure that the bolt head can sit as flush a possible and so not impede the wing fitting.

Once these are fitted the capping beech can be added – tricky as it is quite a bend on the upper section so a combination of clamps and twisted wire keeps it in place whilst the Aerolite goes off.

The trailing edge is shaped ready for the balsa filling to be epoxied into position and then sanded to profile.

The stringers are fitted top and bottom and then the top leading edge sheet ply. Gussets are finally added before smoothing the whole thing down.

The aileron return leads come back through the trailing edge and then travel under the body (above the driving aileron leads at the back end of the control column). 

To keep them clear of the body they run through small metal angle brackets which have paxolin plates riveted in place to ensure that the steel cable (3.2 multi strand steel) rub against paxolin vs the steel bracket.

Aileron bellcranks are located one in each lower wing. They turn effectively Left/Right motion into fore/aft motion that can then drive the aileron operation.

I had some parts in the engien box but I have started to note down what additional parts I need to get the engine connected and plumbed in !

So far have a regulator, a starter solenoid and a car oil catcher which will keep the engine bay clean. Bits being ordered through good services of TLAC are

• Fuel pipes – sheathed
• Oil pipes
• Oil cooler matrix
• Pan head air filters
• Cabling for battery
• Cabling for starter
• Tacho head and cable
• SCAT pipe for air ducting
• Oil temp cable
• Cylinder head monitoring unit and cable
• A clever single gauge that tracks all this but takes up very little space on dash

The Luke Harnesses I have bought through TLAC are multi point and provide full support for both normal and inverted flying.

The twisted shackle ensures the cable misses chafing on the seat support post and will provide an anchor point for the thimble and 3.2 mm steel securing cable.

The cabane has three ribs that make up its basic structure and the ribs need to be shaped and cut to allow clean tight slot fit over the support structure.

Holes have to be drilled where the bolt heads protrude to ensure the outboard ribs sit flush with the structure

Last night was a fun packed evening of a complete re-arrangement of the workshop. This was to allow space to start jigging the wings. I need space either side of the body (obviously !) to allow bot the upper and lower wings to be test fitted.

This meant turning the ‘plane through 90 degrees and using every available inch to work on it as I still have a lot to do around the nose area with cowl trimming.

To help speed the process up I have moved the building of the ailerons from the Barn to above my garage roof !

This space lets me lay it all out and nip up and down to the roof to glue various small pieces, position them, clamp tem then wait for them to set before popping back up to do the same with more gussets, leading/trailing edge pieces.

The hardwood jig makes sure that all are square and true.

Also, the fibreglassing and subseqent sanding is carried out in a resonably airy space.

The front rudder cables were the first cables I prepared. Now, with the rear end signed off, I can complete the long running cables that go from the pilot rudder pedals to the rear rudder horn.

These run through small metal guides under the pilot seat which prevent them fouling on the bodywork. Further, to prevent the twisted steel cable chafing against the metal bracket there are small paxolin plates shped, drilled and bolted to the metal bracket so that the rudder control cable rubs against paxolin instead of metal.